Ol Donyo Lodge, Conserving The Land And Its Wildlife

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Blending contemporary design with Maasai influences, ol Donyo is what a safari lodge should truly embody.  
 
Taking to the skies in the 4-seater Cessna 206, Captain Morris informs me that the flight from Kimana to ol Donyo’s private airstrip will take a mere eleven minutes. “Be prepared for a few bumps along the way,” he cautions. Having been on numerous small planes, I know full well that a turbulent flight is mostly attributed to heat, which is the case today. The aircraft looks like its modeled on a giraffe’s coat pattern, and Morris waves as he takes off again. 

Lunch is served in a different spot during your stay. Photo courtesy of Great Plains ConservationLunch is served in a different spot during your stay. Photo courtesy of Great Plains Conservation

My guide Seki is waiting at the airstrip, ready to drive me to the lodge in the Great Plains Conservation Toyota Land Cruiser. The scenery en route is breathtaking, as is the setting of Ol Donyo Lodge tucked into Kenya’s Chyulu Hills. I’ve made it in time for lunch, which consists of reverse-seared chicken with zhaug sauce, wild rice salad with papaya and ginger, green beans/roasted peppers/sesame seeds salad, glazed baby carrots with yoghurt and pomegranate, garden leaves salad with pickled radish and seeds, bread of the day and dessert and/or cheese platter. 

The stunning luxury pool suite at Ol Donyo Lodge. Photo courtesy of Great Plains ConservationThe stunning luxury pool suite at Ol Donyo Lodge. Photo courtesy of Great Plains Conservation

A Great Plains Conservation Réserve Collection lodge and a Relais + Châteaux property, I’m excited to see where I’ll be spending the next two nights. At the end of the path, a gate with the name El Mau is where room steward Solonka pauses. “Welcome to your new home,” he says with a smile. He goes on to explain that the name refers to the twin peaks in the distance. El Mau houses two separate pool villas, and I’m staying in number 10. 

A bath with a view? Yes please! Photo courtesy of Great Plains ConservationA bath with a view? Yes please! Photo courtesy of Great Plains Conservation

The dark wooden door swings open, and as is custom with any of the Great Plains properties, the space is incredibly opulent. Cement floors are cool underfoot and lead to the dreamy bedroom, where wooden floors covered with Persian carpets are a nod to a juxtaposition of old-world charm meets new style. Draped at night in mosquito netting, the bed is so large that it takes three sets of pillows. Crafted nightstands flank both sides of the bed, and two writing desks with leather chairs are the ideal place to pen a postcard or letter to your loved ones. Be warned, they will be bright green with envy as the Great Plains Conservation name is globally renowned. 

The star bed on your upstairs deck is a magical experience. Photo courtesy of Great Plains ConservationThe star bed on your upstairs deck is a magical experience. Photo courtesy of Great Plains Conservation

Let’s get back to the Luxury pool suite. In the bedroom, there is a seating area indoors and outside, with the most magnificent views over the landscape. And that’s not all! Down the passage, the bathroom has double vanities, a freestanding bath, an inside + outside shower, and a flush loo. A pool and sun loungers on my private deck offer respite on warm days. The piece de resistance? On the rooftop, you will find a star bed, where you can spend the night under a blanket of stars. 

A giraffe foal on our afternoon safari. Photo by Heléne RamackersA giraffe foal on our afternoon safari. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

With twice-daily game drives, there is always an air of anticipation about what wildlife we might encounter. Departing on the afternoon safari, Seki heads towards the area where the lions were last seen. On the way there, a very young giraffe is standing all alone amongst the red oats grass. We both wonder where its mom is, but decide to leave rather as to not attract unwanted attention to this cute foal. 

One of the Lesoit lion pride members. Photo by Heléne RamackersOne of the Lesoit lion pride members. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

Out on the plains, we can hardly make out what shape is lurking in the camouflaging grass. All of a sudden, one of them sits upright. It’s the Lesoit pride of lions, consisting of 26 members of different ages. Lesoit means rock in the local Maasai language. The cubs are intent on joining the hunt. A female has her sights set on an oryx, but he catches her scent and scurries off into the distance. 

How adorable is this little black backed jackal pup? Photo by Heléne RamackersHow adorable is this little black backed jackal pup? Photo by Heléne Ramackers

Dinner is served in the dining room, which is a great conclusion to a wonderful day. An askari escorts me to my suite, as walking unaccompanied between sunset and sunrise is not allowed. Feeling refreshed after a good night’s sleep, Seki wants to see if he can locate the cheetahs. Setting off from the lodge’s reception area, there is a ‘bushbaby’ (warm water bottle) and the Iconic Great Plains Kenya Masai blanket on the seat for me to use. With the sun just making an appearance, we see a solitary hyena, a journey of a giraffe, and the most adorable black backed jackal pups. There are three of them! 

A cheetah cub uses a termite mound as a lookout point. Photo by Heléne RamackersA cheetah cub uses a termite mound as a lookout point. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

The search continues for the cheetahs, and we eventually find them resting under a tree. Way in the distance, a Grand gazelle is standing, which Seki thinks could be the perfect meal for Mom Cheetah and her three cubs. She flattens herself, and the cubs follow suit. Moving slowly along, she has seen the gazelle, but he might be a bit on the large side. Which could be a challenge for her. They take a break every couple of yards, and one of the cubs uses a termite mound as a lookout point. 

The watering hole is a hive of activity. Photo by Heléne RamackersThe watering hole is a hive of activity. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

Returning to the lodge, we swing by the watering hole, which is a hive of activity. Guests can access the open-air or sunken hides from the steps leading down from the main area. Seeing an animal from eye level offers such a unique perspective. A bull elephant is enjoying the refreshing water and makes his displeasure known when another elephant wants to come for a drink. 

He lets out a low rumble, but the two eventually settle their differences and have a peaceful mud spray. 

A giraffe drinking at the watering hole. Photo by Heléne RamackersA giraffe is drinking at the watering hole. Photo by Heléne Ramackers

One of the most interesting things to witness in the wild is a giraffe drinking. Between 13 and 20 feet tall, they have to splay their front legs and bend their knees. Then they lower their necks to be able to reach the surface of the water. This also makes them rather vulnerable when predators are around. A very tall male approaches the watering hole, but instead of stopping at the edge, he walks right through it. Crouching down, I can see his beautiful, long black eyelashes. He is clearly thirsty as he laps up the liquid refreshment with vigor. Spending more time here than I anticipated, it’s clear why the ol Donyo hide is slated as one of the best in Africa. 

ol Donyo Lodge is beautifully set in Kenya’s Chyulu Hills. Photo by Great Plains Conservationol Donyo Lodge is beautifully set in Kenya’s Chyulu Hills. Photo by Great Plains Conservation

Founded by conservation and sustainability stalwarts Dereck and Beverly Joubert, Great Plains Conservation was launched in 2006. With their adoration for the African continent, the National Geographic Filmmakers at large have poured over four decades into making award-winning wildlife documentaries.  Establishing camps in the African countries of Zimbabwe, Botswana, and Kenya, Dereck has a soft spot for guests visiting the Great Plains camps. 

The lounge area at ol Donyo Lodge. Photo courtesy of Great Plains ConservationThe lounge area at ol Donyo Lodge. Photo courtesy of Great Plains Conservation

“Here at Great Plains, we love nothing more than when a special occasion request comes to camp and we relish in pulling out all the stops to give our guests a memorable and magical experience,” commented Great Plains CEO Dereck Joubert. “There’s nowhere better to celebrate life’s most important occasions than Africa, where memories of a lifetime are waiting to be made. Of course, our guests often find their ‘once-in-a-lifetime’ escapes are too good to experience just once, meaning they like to come back over and over again!” 

Extraordinary Journeys: Safaris with Heart, Depth, and Seamless Care 

Extraordinary Journeys (EJ) designs bespoke safaris across Africa that go beyond luxury to reveal the continent’s soul. With 15 years of expertise and an unrivaled network of guides, conservationists, and local insiders, EJ opens doors to experiences few travelers ever access. Each trip is supported by a dedicated concierge team providing 24/7 on-the-ground assistance and ensuring every detail runs effortlessly. From Kenya’s private conservancies to Botswana’s delta waterways, EJ crafts journeys that are deeply personal, immersive, and inspiring. These are safaris designed to connect you to place, to people, and to immerse you in the experience fully. 

To book, visit www.extraordinaryjourneys.com, e-mail [email protected] or call 212.226.7331

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