Everyone had their reasons for joining the trip. Louisa from south London was putting her life back together after a split from her partner; first-timer Tim was strapping on ski boots following years of hesitation; and Lexi from Bristol had a classic case of the non-skiing boyfriend.
I was there because I needed a ski gang. None of my friends ski, and my brother was out of action with an injury. Not only that, I needed a good night’s sleep. I love my two-year-old son dearly, but I have somehow spawned an insomniac – still waking four times a night. Weary from bedtime battles, Holly, my partner, bluntly pointed out we could both benefit from “a temporary break from family life”. In other words: separate holidays.
Holly arranged a walking trip with friends; I opted for a week’s skiing in the French ski resort of Les Deux Alpes with Friendship Travel, a specialist operator in solo travel for more than 20 years. They find a chalet, fill it with solo skiers, provide travel, most meals and group ski lessons – that’s the basic service.
We were staying in a comfortable, largeish chalet just back from the resort’s mile-long drag. Entering a group holiday with strangers is a leap into the unknown. I was greeted by Sam and Mike, our (thankfully) low-key hosts, shown to my private room (you can save by bunking up with a same sex stranger), then introduced to my fellow holidaymakers. It turned out that there were 17 of us – nine women, eight men – and we were whisked into the lounge for a briefing and welcome drink. The atmosphere was upbeat and easy, and we gathered round one large table for an excellent three-course dinner.
Most Friendship Travel guests are aged between 35 and 65, and our group was at the top end of that range. There was Vivienne, a retired nurse from Cumbria who had just lost her partner, and Adriana, a “silver splitter” relishing retirement. For a few – myself included – it was the first such holiday, but many were inveterate solo travellers, with Ivyon, a former production operator from Bridgend, clocking up more than 90 trips.
The first morning, we set off to our ski lockers at the bottom of the slopes (tip: I booked my equipment hire in advance, saving €40). The group naturally fragmented, allowing small cliques to form – people relaxed as they started to identify potential après buddies.
I skied with Elaine, Clemmie, James and our guide, Luke, in the “level 4 advanced” group (we were asked to rate our ability beforehand). The backbone of Les Deux Alpes, the new Jandri 3S cable car, whisked us up to an altitude of 3,200 metres in 17 minutes – instead of the previous 40. Above broken clouds, we paused to admire the astonishing jagged peaks of the Écrins national park.
We blasted down a mixture of broad blue and red runs, plus some not overly challenging blacks. Although none of us had met before, we quickly settled into a rhythm, looking out for one another as the snow fell softly. There’s safety in numbers, especially on the off-piste sections. “I’d never have tried that alone,” said Clemmie.
Afternoons brought more skiing, followed by hands-in-the-air après at Skandal – reopened in 2025 following an extension – with a DJ on a packed terrace. Around sundown, the chalet WhatsApp group would start to ping. “Polar Bear Pub, anyone?” would be a typical message, often sent by Mícheál from Armagh, a dependable partner for a pint.
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Solo travel has undergone a perception shift in recent decades, according to Colum McLornan, who founded Friendship Travel in 1999. “Travelling alone was often seen as unconventional, and for many it carried a stigma. But travellers are increasingly seeking independence, flexibility and personal growth. What was once viewed with hesitation is now celebrated, and solo holidays have become one of the fastest-growing segments in the industry,” he said.
At times, group etiquette could be a minefield: nobody likes waiting for latecomers (me); is it rude to always sit in the same seat at breakfast? (probably); is it OK to peel away from the group and ski by oneself? (up to a point); will I look like a skinflint if I buy my own wine? (absolutely, but life’s too short for plonk).
Honourable mention to Steve, a jolly retired doctor from north London. I enjoyed his vivid stories of cruising the Yangtze River, and skiing with his father in Austria during the late 1950s. Despite our age gap, we struck up a bond that lasted all week. Naturally, not all guests are interesting and fun. One seemingly endless dinner conversation about printer cartridges had me dreaming of Netflix in my room.
Then, suddenly, I found myself hugging my ski gang goodbye, bound for the train. Would I go solo again? Yes. Our hosts were helpful without being intrusive, the skiing superb (especially the high-altitude stuff on Glacier de Mont-de-Lans) and I met people I will stay in touch with. Best of all, I finally got some sleep.
The trip was provided by Friendship Travel. A seven-night package with a private room in a shared chalet, daily breakfast and afternoon tea, dinner with wine on five evenings, and six days of group ski lessons in Les Deux Alpes, costs from £1,820pp. Return rail travel from London to Grenoble was provided by Eurostar
