Five Top Tables: Where to Eat in Toronto This Fall

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Business Meal: Bar Goa, Old Town

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Just a short walk from Toronto’s Financial District, Bar Goa turns out refined South Asian dishes in a sleek, lowlit room buzzing with after-work energy. The thoughtful, concise menu balances nostalgia and invention. Crab rasam puri (C$23) is a shellfish-packed comfort soup, whereas the chicken pepper fry kulcha taco (C$23) packs punch and personality, inside a thick tortilla. The Goan prawn curry (C$43) has depth and balance; it’s the kind of dish that begs for an extra order of rice.

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There’s a smart cocktails list that plays well with spice, but the mango lassi (C$12) is hard to top. It also stars as the flavoring for the dessert panna cotta (C$14), a silky, unexpected closer. Cocktails are similarly inspired, including the pani puri martini, with a garnish of savory stuffed puris in a vodka-infused drink, laced with tamarind, mint and spices.

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Another bonus: It’s a culinary cliché that you don’t take a South Asian to a South Asian restaurant unless it can outdo their mom’s cooking; here, that adage bends. The crowd is a mix of suits and families, and almost every other table was filled with South Asian diners, a quiet but powerful vote of confidence. 36 Toronto St.; bargoa.ca

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No Reservations: Côte de Boeuf, Trinity-Bellwoods

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Butcher. Bistro. Wine bar. Often described as a slice of Paris in one of Toronto’s trendiest neighborhoods, Côte de Boeuf is a small, charming spot that’s simultaneously casual and elevated. Wooden wine barrels double as tables, daily specials are scrawled on a chalkboard, and shelves are lined with French wines and gourmet pantry goods. The decor includes a fridge full of cheese.

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As the name suggests, the specialty is beef—locally sourced and butchered in-house the old-fashioned way, by handsaw. The kitchen turns out escargots au beurre persillé et ail (C$17), housemade terrines (C$19) and, in season, foie gras (C$32). But most people are focused on the meat: steak frites starring a 10-ounce dry-aged strip loin (C$49), or the showstopping 48-ounce côte de boeuf with duck fat potatoes (C$172).

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We highly recommend asking the server for recommendations, which often include the specials of the day that reflect the chef’s mood. There’s 26 seats plus two outdoor tables at this no reservations spot: lunch is the easiest time to go. For dinner, go early, add your name to the waitlist, and grab a drink, or window shop along the buzzing Ossington Strip. (The exception: The reservation-only Butcher’s Table which seats 4-6 and serves a 7-course tasting menu, culminating in the namesake beef preparation.) 

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But relief is coming: After more than a decade on Ossington, Côte de Boeuf is expanding, with a new, larger location set to open early next year in the Annex (no reservations options in that location either!) . 130 Ossington Ave.; cotedeboeuf.ca/

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Bloomberg Index/DINE: Ardo, Old Town

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Toronto may be thousands of kilometers from Italy, but this cozy yet contemporary spot manifests Sicily. Located in the city’s Old Town, Ardo is the brainchild of chef Roberto Marotta and his partner in life and business, Jacqueline Nicosia. Indeed, says one DINE enthusiast, Ardo “checks every box. The owners are Sicilian, and the service, decor and quality of the food shows. They have a nice variety of classic Italian dishes and savory food.” The couple also have other ventures that celebrate their heritage, including sister restaurant Bar Ardo restaurant and Vivi Imports, a premier importer and distributor of quality Sicilian products.

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Seafood shines here. Raw tuna carpaccio with celery, capers and cucumber is refreshing; the grilled polpo is perfectly cooked and paired with marinated artichoke and delicate celery leaf (C$26 each). Among other standouts is the housemade gnocchi—a crowd favorite—pan-seared with Italian porcini and local mushrooms, heirloom carrots and a velvety cream and Parmigiano sauce (C$29). The cocktail menu includes a signature martini featuring a caper-infused Sicilian gin (C$19) and a decent wine list. Sweet finishes to the meal include, of course, traditional Sicilian cannoli filled with ricotta (C$14). 243 King St. E.; ardorestaurant.com/

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—With assistance from Melissa Shin.

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