9 Chinese Designers Making Global Waves

As Shanghai cements its status as one of fashion’s most dynamic (yet seemingly underrated) capitals, a new generation of up-and-coming designers is stepping into the global spotlight. Fusing directional aesthetics with cross-cultural fluency, these rising talents are reshaping perceptions of Chinese fashion, blending tradition, technology, streetwear and luxury into striking new forms. From sculptural experiments to sleek urban tailoring, the work of these designers reflects a city of sartorial innovation.

Sankuanz

Shangguan Zhe founded Sankuanz in 2013, where he quickly gained recognition for his sculptural pieces, merging traditional Chinese design elements with modern silhouettes. Sankuanz was successful in carving out a reputation for its daring fusion of cultural references and rebellious spirit. After studying visual communication and advertising at Xiamen University, Shangguan launched his menswear label rather than following a traditional career route.

His distinctive vision quickly positioned him as one of China’s most unconventional new voices in fashion. By combining classical influences with graphic elements, sharp tailoring and deconstructed, androgynous silhouettes, Sankuanz’s collections successfully balance eccentricity with skillful precision. The brand’s designs often portray genderless figures infused with philosophical reflections on collectivism and belief.

Sankuanz debuted at Shanghai Fashion Week and by 2015, Shangguan was a finalist for the prestigious LVMH Prize. Since 2016, the label has been a regular fixture on the official Paris Fashion Week Men’s calendar, gaining global recognition and a cult following. Today, Sankuanz’s thought-provoking approach to contemporary menswear is a testament to Shangguan Zhe’s commitment to making Chinese fashion an internationally recognised power player.

Head to their official website or Instagram to find out more.

Xander Zhou

A true pioneer of Shanghai streetwear, Xander Zhou’s ability to balance experimental fashion with everyday, “wearable” pieces has made his collections highly sought after both in China and beyond. Known for his genre-defying approach to menswear, Xander Zhou draws from a multicultural background shaped by industrial design studies in China and fashion design training in the Netherlands. His collections are marked by playful disruptions such as rainbow prints, exaggerated silhouettes and unexpected graphic accents that challenge traditional notions of masculinity and style. Inspired more by personal instinct than by heritage fashion houses, Zhou’s designs reflect a fascination with youth culture, fluid identities and the emotional response that clothes can evoke.

While Xander Zhou is primarily based in Beijing, his strong presence at Shanghai Fashion Week has made him an influential figure in the city’s fashion scene, alongside regular appearances at international events like London Fashion Week Men’s. In fact, Xander Zhou was the first menswear fashion designer from China to be part of London Fashion Week Men’s. Today, his boundary-pushing pieces are stocked internationally in cities like London, New York, Tokyo and Seoul.

Head to their official website or Instagram to find out more.

SHUSHU/TONG

Founded by Liushu Lei and Yutong Jiang in 2015, SHUSHU/TONG redefines conventional notions of femininity with a bold, irreverent spirit. Based in Shanghai, the duo — both womenswear MA graduates from the London College of Fashion — bring a directional edge to unabashedly feminine codes like ruffles and bows, stripping them of “primness” and infusing them with a relaxed, modern attitude. With refined in-house tailoring techniques, SHUSHU/TONG bridges the boundary between “girlhood” and “womanhood” in a way that feels simultaneously youthful and polished.

After early stints at Simone Rocha and Gareth Pugh, the designers quickly captured international attention. Their debut collection was picked up by Lane Crawford, and as of writing, the brand is stocked globally at prestigious retailers including Dover Street Market, Opening Ceremony and 10 Corso Como.

Head to their official website or Instagram to find out more.

Chen Peng

Specialising in oversized outerwear, Chen Peng’s designs have caught the eye of international celebrities and fashion influencers alike. His work combines comfort with luxury, blending rich textiles and innovative patterns to create one-of-a-kind, statement-making pieces. Founded by designer Peng Chen in London in 2015, Chen Peng reimagines contemporary fashion through the lens of body inclusivity and individualism. A graduate of London College of Fashion’s MA menswear programme, Peng developed the concept of “One-Sized Fashion,” designing pieces that transcend conventional sizing and embrace a spectrum of body shapes. His work challenges traditional ideas of beauty, highlighting personal features rather than adhering to standard ideals.

Chen Peng quickly rose to international attention, with collections now stocked in over 70 boutiques and department stores worldwide, including Dover Street Market, SSENSE, Opening Ceremony and Galeries Lafayette. His designs have been worn by major names like Rihanna, Lady Gaga, Bella Hadid and Fan Bingbing.

Blending bold creativity with practical function, Peng’s aesthetic mixes oversized silhouettes with unexpected detailing, offering a fresh voice in modern fashion. His career highlights include being appointed chief costume designer for the Beijing 2022 Winter Olympics Opening Ceremony, a collaboration with Moncler House of Genius, and being named Designer of the Year at the BAZAAR Design Awards 2022. Chen Peng continues to reshape the conversation around fashion equality and individuality on a global scale.

Head to their official website or Instagram to find out more.

Samuel Guì Yang

Founded by Samuel Yang and Erik Litzén, Samuel Guì Yang is a London-based studio with deep ties to both Shanghai and London. The brand weaves together Chinese and Western influences to create modern wardrobe essentials distinguished by subtle, dramatic details and a rich cultural dialogue. Their design ethos centres on blending historical references with contemporary forms, resulting in garments that “carry a quiet, enigmatic strength”. Committed to sustainability, the studio embraces mindful fabric choices, ethical production methods and thoughtful design practices. At the heart of their vision is a desire to “redefine perceptions of Chinese creativity”, crafting pieces that hone in on artistry and cultural innovation for a new generation of fashion-conscious consumers.

Head to their official website or Instagram to find out more.

Jacques Wei

Founded in 2010, Jacques Wei’s namesake label was created to challenge traditional ideas of glamour with couture-inspired craftsmanship. Known for his attention to detail, Wei reimagines classic silhouettes and sharp tailoring through the use of luxurious materials. With an infusion of romanticism, his designs capture the essence of the “modern woman” while drawing on the sophisticated aesthetics of the ‘90s. Specialising in clean, precise cuts, Jacques Wei’s collections blend silhouettes frequently seen in the ‘90s (minimalist dresses, structured corset slings and oversized suits that reflect the decade’s rebellious spirit) with timeless elements.

Each piece is thoughtfully designed, with a strong focus on tailoring and fine details. Wei’s latest collection is a tribute to the bold muses of the ’90s, incorporating playful butterflies, floral patterns and striking cutouts. Their latest collection, seen during the Shanghai 2025 Fall collection, features rich silks, luxurious feathers, soft leathers and an array of embellishments, including crystals and mirrors, adding an opulent touch to the signature designs.

Head to their Instagram to find out more.

Oude Waag

Named after the 17th-century Amsterdam weigh house where goods were once measured and valued, Oude Waag draws on ideas of tradition, worth and quiet introspection. Founded in 2017 by Jingwei Yin, a Central Saint Martins and Royal College of Art graduate, the Shanghai-based label is quickly becoming one of China’s most compelling new voices in luxury fashion. For Yin, designing is akin to “keeping a diary” — a deeply personal, evolving record of human experience, marked by fleeting, abstract moments of emotion and intimacy. Oude Waag’s aesthetic is defined by its intellectual and empathetic exploration of the relationship between mind, clothing and body.

Yin’s sharp cutting, fluid draping and attention to understated beauty are central to his design language, revealing garments that are delicate yet structured, poetic yet subversive. There is a subtle tension at play: a celebration of feminine strength that also critiques the way the body has historically been idealised and objectified. Having trained under visionary designers like Haider Ackermann and Hussein Chalayan, Yin brings a razor-sharp sense of craftsmanship and a quietly radical spirit to each collection, bridging Asian sensibilities with the precision of European tailoring.

Head to their official website or Instagram to find out more.

Yueqi Qi

Founded in 2019, Yueqi Qi’s namesake label is a vibrant testament to her instinct, craft and imagination. A graduate of London’s prestigious Central Saint Martins, Qi honed her skills at Chanel’s embroidery atelier before launching her brand, which quickly caught international attention with collaborations for Gucci’s GUCCIFEST and Vault projects. Her work — often a dazzling interplay of intricate beading, embroidery and cutting-edge fabric innovations — weaves narrative threads that explore time, memory and identity.

Whether showcasing at Tokyo pop-ups or walking the runways of Shanghai, Qi’s creations — seen on stars like Blackpink’s Lisa — fuse traditional Chinese artistry with an avant-garde, futuristic sensibility. A semi-finalist for the 2022 LVMH Prize and a participant in the Love of Couture exhibition at Hong Kong’s K11 Musea, Qi is part of a new generation rewriting the codes of couture without being confined to geographical labels. As she was quoted in an interview saying, “Couture is art,” and for Qi, every bead, feather and laser-cut detail is a brushstroke on a canvas of imagination.

Head to their official website or Instagram to find out more.

Louis Shengtao Chen

At just 27 years old, Louis Shengtao Chen is reshaping the idea of glamour on his own terms. A graduate of Central Saint Martins and a former model, the Beijing-born designer established his namesake label in 2021 with a mission to challenge traditional notions of luxury. His creations — often a collision of exaggerated colours, dramatic textures, and unconventional materials (exploring sustainable materials like Ultrasuede) — celebrate storytelling, craft and an offbeat sense of beauty. Based in Chongqing, a city typically unassociated with fashion, Chen’s avant-garde designs — think exposed hoop skirts, furry shoes, and sequinned leg warmers — have won fans from Blackpink’s Lisa to Caroline Polachek.

A semi-finalist for the 2023 LVMH Prize, Chen continues to make his mark globally, showing in Paris and Milan while staying true to his instinct-driven, experimental ethos. For Chen, glamour is not polished perfection but something raw, emotional and fiercely alive. While Louis Shengtao Chen is not based in Shanghai, his work has undeniably contributed to the city’s rising influence in the global fashion scene, helping to shape a new wave of Chinese designers pushing beyond the regional boundaries of the luxury fashion industry.

Head to their official website or Instagram to find out more.

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